Breath

I was an only child.

Sort of solitary by nature.

I learned to swim in the river and that's where I met Loonie,

who began to help me understand fear.

Do you reckon you can row this thing over the bar?

The bar? I don't know.

I guess, on the right day, you probably could.

I don't know if you'd ever get her back again.

Why would you want to do that?

I don't know. It's the sea.

Huh. Righto, drop it.

There's more fish in here, anyway, mate.

But I don't reckon you ought to do it.

- So, you reckon I won't? - That's not what I said.

- I just... - Shh. Listen.

Here he comes.

I don't reckon we should do this.

- "We"? And don't follow me. - I'm not going to.

You'll just get skittled.

Don't follow me.

Mm. Mm.

Lovely meal, Mrs. Pike.

I'm sure your mum can cook a corned beef, Ivan.

Mm. Nah.

- How'd you get that eye? - Cricket.

Someone said there were two boys

playing on the highway this morning.

Said the driver nearly lost control of his truck,

he had to brake that fast.

Oh, no. Those idiots.

- Mm. - I know those kids.

- Oh, you do? - Yeah.

Who are they?

Oh, just some ning-nongs

from way up, way up from...

...from...

Angelus kids. Yeah, those Angelus kids.

Yeah, they're real... real buggers.

Ohh.

Ooh. So delicious.

I'm hoping you've said your prayers.

'Cause if God doesn't look after you, no-one else will.

Night, Ivan.

- Excuse me, Mrs. Pike. - Hm?

Do you reckon I can get one of them?

Thank you.

I didn't know you played cricket.

I don't. I hate cricket.

Got caught stealing my old man's ciggies.

Night, Pikey.

Some old guy. They were fishing off the rocks.

- Did he drown? Yeah.

Fucking sank like a stone.

And your dad had a front-row seat.

So, there you are.

That's why he doesn't want you coming out here.

Hm.

- How far is this? - I don't know.

So, what would you do if she put her hand in your pocket?

Why would she?

I don't know. See what she could find?

I know what she'd find if she put it in my pocket.

A flawlessly well-sized Johnson.

Smooth-touch wonder, that's what she'd find.

Look out. Move aside.

Keep pedaling, boys!

Look at that.

Come on, boys. Not much further to go.

Got it.

Hey, wait!

You're gonna stack it! Let go.

No, seriously, let go.

Oh, ho-ho-ho! Oh, shit.

It's pretty small.

Oh, but nice and clean.

I'm gonna go for a walk.

Do you reckon it'll pick up with the tide?

Never had I seen men do

something so beautiful...

...so pointless and elegant.

As if dancing on water

was the best and bravest thing a man could do.

Thanks, guys.

See you, boys. - See you.

See you. See you.

See you!

Hi, Mr. Pike!

Afternoon, Ivan.

It's a good one, isn't it? Bloody ripper, Mr. Pike.

Where have you been, mate?

Oh, just for a ride. They gave us a lift back.

- Bloody ripper! - Your mum's been worried sick.

Alright? So, go inside and say you're sorry.

And come back out here and take the chickens in, please.

The first boards we got were Coolites -

short, boxy, Styrofoam things

that squeaked when you touched them.

They weren't much chop

but we thought they were the duck's nuts.

Yeah, there she goes.

What we need, mate, is real boards.

Genuine fiberglass, hard ones.

With big stiff fins.

What do you say, Pikelet?

Yeah. Yeah, okay.

Ripper.

Look at yous two stupid pricks.

It's raining.

And the water's as cold as a witch's bits

and you're bloody swimming?

We like "bloody swimming", Dad!

Five bucks a load to chop it up.

Are you interested?

And there's four more loads.

If you don't do it, I'll get someone else.

Hm?

- 20 bucks a truckload. - Uh-uh.

- 15? - Oh...

Ten. Fuck it. Ten.

Yeah?

- Each. - Yous can get to buggery.

Ah. Come on.

And I want to kill it.

Oh. What are you doing?

I don't want you telling the other guys

- where you got these from. - Why not?

'Cause they're shit boards. That's why.

- Oh. Thanks, Slipper. - Thanks, mate.

Mine's better.

Mine's got wings. It's cooler.

My first wave that morning.

I leant across the wall of upstanding water,

and the board came with me...

as though it was part of my body and mind.

I still judge every joyous moment

and every victory and revelation

against those first few seconds of riding that wave.

Wouldn't be dead for quids, would you?

Right. Up in the back! Go on!

You boys need a ride?

Our bikes are just at the top of the hill.

Yeah. Get in.

Just here.

Pair of hellmen, you two.

What is that?

Surfing bareback all weather. How old are you?

- 14. - Almost 14.

Bullshit. He's full of shit.

Oh, 13 and a half, then. Jesus.

If you get tired of lugging your boards,

you can leave them at our place.

Jeez, thanks.

First driveway on the left, half a mile onto the bitumen.

- Okay. Thanks for the ride. - See you.

OK, cool. Cheers, mate.

Come on!

What do you reckon?

Mm.

Hippies. That's what I reckon.

Nah, fuck it.

My arm's rooted.

Hippies, alright.

Hello?

Anyone home?

Oi. Come check this out.

It's a total hippy love nest.

You shouldn't be up there, Loonie.

Loonie, we should probably just get going.

Yeah, yeah, I'm coming.

Don't get all fucking sulky on me.

"Probably should get going, Loonie."

Morning.

Mm.

Ohh...

A Brewer.

It's bloody paradise.

You boys take a wrong turn?